Please take the time to read and fully understand the following instructions before installing your stair railing.

To determine the placement of your upper post(s), you first must decide where the intermediate post(s) will go so they align. Generally the two outside screw holes of the intermediate post(s) are positioned directly over the stair jack or riser to meet the blocking requirement (3” minimum). Set the appropriate sleeve into the upper post (this is generally a center to down or compound angle sleeve). Position your upper post(s) so that it aligns with the intermediate stair posts AND so that the transition point on the top of the sleeve is positioned directly over the first step. Cut 3 /16” sleeve allowance off the top post(s). Pre-drill using the 11/64” drill bit and fasten with four (4) #14 x 3” screws. Check the posts for plum and level; shim with provided picket insert if necessary.

NOTE: The intermediate and bottom stair posts will be sent out as 40” plain posts. They will be cut to size as explained in “Cut the Stair Posts”.

For most residential applications, the bottom post will be located on the tread of the bottom step, but the bottom post could also be located on the landing. Determine the best placement for your application; set the bottom post in line with the upper post. As always, be sure to have adequate blocking for the base plate screws. Pre-drill, fasten, check for plum and level, and shim if necessary.

Refer to the Post Layout Drawing to determine the number of intermediate posts (if any). Set the post(s) so that you maintain fairly equal spacing while also locating the post as far out on the individual tread as possible to still hit adequate blocking. Pre-drill, fasten, check for plum and level, and shim if necessary. NOTE: The maximum post- to-post dimension for a glass stair application is 5’; the maximum post- to-post dimension for a picket stair application is 6’. If your application exceeds these dimensions, you will need to order an additional intermediate post, stair rail clips, and stair post mount plate.

 

POST PLACEMENT - STINGER MOUNT APPLICATION

The stinger mount application is similar to the surface mount application, except that the posts attach to the top of the stair stinger instead of the treads. With allows for more equal post spacing between posts. The stringer plate is welded at the angle of the stringer (the angle provided during the estimation / order process).

Pre-drill using the 11/64” drill bit and fasten with the four (4) #14 x 3” screws. Check for plum and level as necessary.

 

POST PLACEMENT - FASCIA MOUNT APPLICATION

The fascia mount application is similar to the stringer and surface mount applications, except that the posts attach to the fascia (either the side of the stringer or the side of the steps themselves). This, typically, also allows for more equal spacing between the posts.

Pre-drill using the 11/64” drill bit and fasten with the four (4) #14 x 3” screws. Check for plum and level as necessary.

 

POST PLACEMENT - 2 1/4" POST APPLICATION

The 2 1/4” Transition Post is used when you need to change the top rail height at a single point. The railing does not run continuous over the top of this post; instead it terminates on the side(s) of the post with either a Stair Sleeve or Sleeve Cap.

Per the International Building Code (IBC), “Handrail height measured vertically from the sloped plane adjoining the tread nosing, or finish surface of ramp slope, shall not be less than 34 inches and not more than 38 inches.” The top rail height of each flight is measured from that flight’s tread nosing. The 2 1/4” Transition Post allows you to maintain the proper height for two flights on one post. This post acts as a newel post at the

turn of your connecting stair flights.

Another reason for using the 2 1/4” Transition Post is at the top of a stair run where a 42” deck railing system meets a 36” stair system. A Sleeve Cap is used on the 42” side of the post, and a Stair Sleeve is used for the angled 36” side (see drawing). Stair sleeves and sleeve caps attach to the side of the 2 1/4” Transition Post with two (2) #12 x 1 1/2” screws (pre-drill using the 7/64” drill bit). The top rail attaches to the underside of the sleeve(s) with one (1) #12 x 1 1/2” screw.

The 2 1/4” Transition Post attaches by pre-drilling and attaching four (4) #14 x 3” screws at the transition point. The post is finished with a 2 1/4” Post Cap. To attach, tap with a non-marking rubber mallet (no screws are necessary).

 

CUT THE STAIR POSTS AND TOP RAIL

As previously explained, the intermediate and bottom post(s) are sent oversized. At this point, we need to determine the height and angle of the top rail in order to cut the post(s) correctly.

Select the top rail according the the Post Layout Drawing; this will be oversized as well to span the entire length of the stair run. Insert the top rail into the sleeve at the top of the stairs and run it adjacent to the post(s). Clamp the top rail to the side of the bottom post and adjust the height until the top of the rail is located at 36” above the nose of all the treads. Mark the intermediate and bottom post(s) along the the bottom of the top rail with a pencil (NOTE: Number the posts before removal so they are reinstalled in the same position). Mark the top rail for cutting to insure a 2 1/2” overhang past the bottom post. This cut will be 90 degrees to allow for proper installation of the end cap. Remove the top rail and the post(s). Cut the post(s) at the top of your marks with the mitre saw. Reattach in the proper location on the stairs. Cut the top rail with the mitre saw as marked.

 

ATTACH THE STAIR POST MOUNT PLATES, TOP RAIL, AND END CAP

Attach the stair post mount plate(s) to the top of the cut post(s) using two (2) #8 x 3/4” screws. Pre-drill and attach the top rail to the post(s) using three (3) #12 x 1 1/2” screws. Install the end cap to the cut end of the top rail with two (2) #7 x 1” screws.

 

POSITION THE BOTTOM RAIL

Select the bottom rail according to the Post Layout Drawing; this will be oversized as well to span the the entire length of the stair run. Clamp the bottom rail to the side of the top and bottom posts; position so that the bottom rail is parallel to the top rail AND that a 6” sphere can not pass under the bottom rail and tread face.

Using the upper line of the bottom rail as a reference, scribe a pencil line on the post as shown. This horizontal pencil line will mark the top of the stair rail clip. Make sure to mark both sides of the intermediate post(s), and just the appropriate side of the top and bottom post(s). Make vertical pencil lines on the bottom rail at the edges of the posts to determine where to cut the bottom rail (NOTE: Number the bottom rail pieces before removal and cutting so they are reinstalled in the proper location).

 

ATTACH STAIR RAIL CLIPS AND BOTTOM RAIL

Center the stair rail clip on the posts so the vertical pencil mark is at the top of the stair rail clip. Fasten to the post using two (2) #10 x 1 1/2” screws.

Use a mitre saw to cut the bottom rail on the vertical pencil lines. For glass applications, install the shallow glass insert into the bottom rail BEFORE cutting. For picket applications, cut the bottom rail without the insert installed.

Position the bottom rail over the stair clips and push down to fully seat the bottom rail. Pre-drill and attach one (1) #8 x 3/4” screw at the bottom line.

 

INSTALL THE PLASTIC INSERT

FOR GLASS APPLICATIONS: Measure the top rail opening(s) between each post attachment. Cut the plastic top rail insert (deeper channel) to size with tin snips. Push the insert into the top rail cavity.

FOR PICKET APPLICATIONS: Measure the top rail opening(s) between each post attachment. Cut the clear plastic top rail insert (deeper channel) to size with tin snips. Push the insert into the top rail cavity. Measure the bottom rail opening(s) between the posts. Cut the clear plastic bottom insert (shallower channel) with tin snips. Push the insert into the bottom rail cavity.

 

ORDER THE GLASS

Parallelogram stair glass is custom cut to your precise specifications. Follow the instructions on the Stair Glass Request Form to order. You must provide all six dimensions for each piece of glass (NOTE: The measurements must be accurate within 1/16”, otherwise the computer program will not recognize them as a complete shape and this will delay your order). Complete the requested information at the top of the form and forward to either your dealer or Western ClearView Railing Systems directly.

Stair glass takes 5-7 working days to fabricate and deliver.

Stair Glass Request Form

 

INSTALL THE GLASS

Select the appropriate piece of glass for each opening. Set the bottom of the glass on the bottom rail insert and lean the top edge of the glass up to the top rail to check the orientation of the glass. It may be necessary at this point to flip the glass left-to-right or top-to-bottom in order to orient the glass properly. You may want to use glass cleaner or dish soap on the top and bottom edges of the glass and/or glass insert to make installation easier. Once the glass is oriented properly, gently push the top corner of the glass into the top of the insert. Continue to push the the upper edge of of the glass until it is completely installed in the top insert. Center the bottom edge of the glass over the bottom rail insert; gently apply downward pressure until the glass rests inside the bottom of the insert. Confirm that the glass is centered within the opening; cut and install a piece of setting block material into the bottom rail insert on the lower side of the glass to keep it from sliding.

 

INSTALL THE PICKETS

Per the International Building Code (IBC), a 4” sphere cannot pass between the openings between the pickets and a 6” sphere cannot pass through a triangular opening formed by the riser, tread and bottom rail. Your specific application must meet these requirements, but is also affected by the angle (steepness or shallowness) of your stairs. To offer the most flexibility, stair pickets are purposely sent long in order to accommodate a variety of opening sizes. The picket spacer is also sent out at a specific size and may need to be cut to maintain the proper spacing. The following chart should be used to determine the length of your individual spacers.

NOTE: For safety, please cut all of your spacers as a bundle or snapped onto a piece of scrap bottom rail.

Leaving approximately a 4” space from the bottom post, insert the first picket with the angled end in the bottom rail. If necessary, cut the top of the picket to fit snugly into the top rail. Using this picket as a guide, determine the height for the remaining pickets in the stair run and make cuts if necessary. Reinstall the bottom picket with the open space between the picket and the post; check for plum and level. Snap a picket spacer on the top and bottom rail above the picket, and continue this process up the entire run. Once all the pickets are installed, add the length of the openings in the first and last position (between the picket and post). Divide the sum by 2 to get the length of the first and last spacers. Cut the spacers if necessary; remember to compensate for sleeves and stair post mount plates on the top rail. Slide the bottom picket as necessary to install the lower spacers. Install all of the top spacers.

NOTE: To assure full capture in the bottom rail, the bottom of all stair pickets MUST be cut at the appropriate angle (the angle specified by the degree of the stairs).